I Found All These Things in Mexico City

Full support to our brothers and sisters in the United States and to our president Claudia Sheinbaum. Overlooking Plaza de La Constitution in Cuauhtemoc.
You need to be able to prove you’re at least 60 years old to enjoy the Jardin de Adultos Mayores in Chapultepec Park

Celebrating 100 years of Mexican baseball (placards in Chapultepec Park)

The El Pastor taco I had at Paloma’s in Benito Juarez was the best taco I’ve ever had in my life.
And at Rica’s in Coyoacan I had the best ever quesadilla.
Jardin Centenario, Coyoacan
Coyoacan is for the birds.
Lincoln Park, Polanco
On a street in Polanco

Design for the ages at the Museo Sumaya

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National Museum of African American History and Culture

With the specter of Trump looming over the Smithsonian museums, it seemed like a good time to take in the African American Museum of History and Culture. I spent most of my time in the history galleries. They cover slavery, the Civil War, reconstruction, discrimination and the civil rights movement. Those are likely exactly the exhibits Trump and his cohorts are apt to try to whitewash.

Esteban de Dorantes was an African enslaved by the Spanish. He became the first non-native explorer in the territory which is now Arizona and New Mexico.
This is a diagram of how slaves were “stowed” on the British slave ship Brookes (1788). 292 Africans were packed into the lower deck while another 130 were confined to shelves on the perimeter, a space with a height of 2’7”.
This is the flag of the Bucks of America, a Massachusetts militia made up of African-Americans who fought in the Revolution.
Slave auction
Like 12 of the first American presidents, Thomas Jefferson owned slaves, 609 of them during his lifetime.
Mother Bethel African Episcopal Church established by free Black men in Philadelphia.
Some examples of demeaning stereotypes.
This cartoon from The Chicago Defender points out the connection between lynchings and the northern migration.

One of the themes running through the museum’s exhibits is how African-Americans fought first for their freedom and later for equal rights, starting with the earliest slave rebellions and continuing through the civil rights, Black Power and Black Lives Matter movements. Here are some samples.

The New York Conspiracy of 1741 was a rebellion of enslaved Africans and poor whites. They set fires through the city, including at the Governor’s mansion. As depicted about this led to harsh punishments for the captured participants.
Drums like this one were used in the Lowcountry for communications. After the Stono Rebellion in 1739 in South Carolina, the state adopted the Slave Code of 1840 which banned the use of drums.
Henry Highland Garnet was a slave in Maryland who escaped and became a radical abolitionist calling for uprisings against slave owners.
Harriet Tubman escaped from slavery in Maryland in 1849. She would become a leader of the Underground Railroad.
A recruitment poster encouraging Black men to join the Union cause in the Civil War.
Civil rights marchers on the way from Selma to Montgomery in 1965.

I ran out of time to see all of this giant museum. There are also cultural exhibits, including those devoted to African-Americans’ contributions to the military, sports and entertainment. Here are a couple samples.

LeRoi Jones would later change his name to Amiri Baraka. His son, Ras Baraka, is currently the mayor of Newark, N.J. Ras Baraka was arrested by Homeland Security earlier this year outside an immigrant detention facility. The nonsense charges against him were dropped before they went to court.
Gimme That Old Time Religion, Carolyn Mazloomi
Builders: Stained Glass Window, Jacob Lawrence
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Rodin, Dali, and the History of Art

Museo Soumaya, Mexico City

The Soumaya is a relatively new museum, opened in 2011. It was founded by Carlos Slim, a Mexican businessman and philanthropist who was at one time ranked by Forbes as the richest man on Earth. He named the museum after his wife, Soumaya Domit, who passed away in 1999.

The Soumaya houses more than 66,000 pieces of art ranging from Mesoamerican artifacts to contemporary paintings. It includes the largest collection of Rodin sculptures outside of France. The Soumaya is run as a non-profit and there is no admission charge at the museum.

Auguste Rodin

Gates of Hell
The Rodin room

Salvador Dali

Venus with Crutches
Dali’s Arms
Bathroom Sililoques

Sculpture

Hebe, Orazio Andrioni, 1880
Cupid, Anonimo Frances, 1750
Aurora, Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux, 1860
Thebes Seated on an Armchair, Giacomo Manzu, 1987

Classic portraiture

Impressionists

Statue of Henry IV and Flowering Trees, Camille Pissarro, 1901
Oostzijdse Mill, Piet Mondrian, 1903-1907
Cottage with a Peasant Coming Back Home,Vincent VanGogh, 1885
After the Storm, Maurice de Vlaminck, 1925
Mexican Maternity, Marc Chagall, 1942
Girls at the Factory, Georges Rouault, 1949
Autumnal Meditation, Georgio de Chirico, 1913

Mexican artists

Zapata, David Alfaro Siqueiros
The Spinner, Raul Anguiano
The Fainting Woman, David Alfaro Siqueiros
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The National Museum of Anthropology, Mexico City

The National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City is the largest anthropology museum in the world and the most visited museum in Mexico. Last year it hosted some 3.7 million visitors. Admission is pretty modest (about $5 U.S.) and it is free for Mexicans on Sunday.

The Mexica

The Mexica were a Nahuatl-speaking people who are believed to have migrated into the Valley of Mexico around 1200. There they built an empire that dominated the region in the 15th and early 16th centuries. Their capital was Tenochtitlan which is where present day Mexico City stands. They were later named Aztecs by historians.

The Stone of the Sun
Xochipilli, “Lord of Flowers,” was considered the god of the royal nobility and patron saint of flowers.
The ancient city of Cholula, part of what would be called the Aztec Empire, was famous for its pottery.
These warrior sculptures, known as “Atlantes,” which were found near the main ball court in front of the Templo Mayor of Tenochtitlan.
A ball game called Pelota was popular among the Mexica and other peoples of Mesoamerica.

Teotihaucan

Teotihaucan was at one time the largest city in Mesoamerica. It is about 25 miles from Mexico City. It is here that the Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon were built. Archeologists believe it was a multi-ethnic city attracting migrants from throughout the region. Teotihaucan has been dated back to 100 BC, predating the Mexica, and it lasted until the 7th or 8th century. Today it is primarily known for its significance as an archeological site.

The Pyramid of the Serpent was a political and religious center for Teotihaucanos. It was built between 150 and 200 AD.
“The Drinkers,” a mural in nearby Cholula, was created in about 200 AD
This is a reproduction of a mural depicting Tlalic, the god of rain.

The Indigenous Peoples of Mexico

Caguama fishing, Adolfo Mexiac, carved from wood with black ink
The Magical World of the Maya, Lenora Carrington
The Cruz Blanca Carnival, José Máximo Rivas
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Ballooning into History

These photos chronicle a hot air balloon ride to the pyramids of Teotihaucan in Mexico. Teotihaucan was at one time believed to be the largest city in the Pre-Colombian Americas. It is about 25 miles northeast of Mexico City.

The two pyramids, the larger Pyramid of the Sun and the smaller Pyramid of the Moon were built by Teotihaucanos in about 200 AD. The names came later, courtesy of the Aztecs. Both had religious significance though exactly what is a matter of conjecture. It is suspected that human and animal sacrifices were done atop these pyramids. The Pyramid of the Sun is the third largest pyramid in the world.

Pyramid of the Sun
Pyramid of the Moon
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Diego Rivera’s Murals

In 1922, shortly after the Mexican Revolution, the Secretariat of Public Education Jose Vasconcelos commissioned Diego Rivera for a mural project at the public education building. The building, located in Mexico City’s historic downtown district, is a large rectangle with two courtyards in the middle. Rivera’s frescoes are painted on the inside walls of the building facing the courtyards.

It took him six years to complete well over 100 panels. The work is a foundation piece of the Mexican mural movement. The building itself has been converted to the Museo Vivo del Muralism and opened as such in 2024. The museum is free. It contains Rivera’s original works and some additional murals by Mexican artists.

Music
In the Arsenal. That’s Frida Kahlo in the center handing out guns. At the far right is Tina Modotti, Italian photographer, feminist and political activist.
Self Portrait

Works by other artists in the museum.

The bearers, Jean Charlot
Mexican stoicism, the hubbub in the middle of chaos, Fernando Andriacci
Abundance, Cesar Menchaca Garcia
Sketch of the mural of the humanoid’s march on Earth and toward the cosmos, David Alfaro Siqueiros
Rites, Raul Anguiano

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Trotsky Slept Here

Leon Trotsky was one of the leaders of the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917. Along with Vladimir Lenin, he was instrumental in the founding and early governance of the Soviet Union. After Lenin’s death, he had a falling out with his successor Joseph Stalin. This would lead to his being expelled from the Politburo and in 1929 was deported. He spent a few years in exile at different European countries before moving to Mexico in 1937 where he was welcomed by Mexican President Lázaro Cárdenas.

Upon his arrival in Mexico, Trotsky and his wife Natalia Sedona moved into La Casa Azul with Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Apparently Trotsky got on better with Frida than he did with Diego, as the two are purported to have had an affair.

In this photo, Trotsky is in the middle, Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are at the far left.

In 1939, Trotsky and Sedona moved to different house in the same Coyoacan section of Mexico City. That house is now the Trotsky Museum.

That’s what you call a working class stove.

While in exile at his new home, Trotsky planted a cactus garden and built a chicken coup.

He also continued to write critically of Stalin and the Stalinist brand of Marxism. After a couple failed assassination attempts, he was murdered by an agent of Stalin’s secret police in 1941. He was buried on the grounds of the house in Coyoacan.

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House of Blue

La Casa Azul was the home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera from 1929 to 1954. Located in the Coyoacán neighborhood of Mexico City, it is now the Museo Frida Kahlo. It houses a good collection of Kahlo’s paintings, many of her personal belongings and objects of art and a beautiful garden that well captures the artsy vibe of the home.

Mi familia (incomplete)
Portrait of my father, Don Guillermo Kahlo
Self Portrait
Frida and the cesarea (Caesarian operation)
Still Life
Moises o nucleo solar (Moises or solar core)
Portrait of Ariya Murray
Long Live Life
Marxism will give health to the sick. This is the painting that was on Kahlo’s easel when she died.
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Murals Resuscitate a Dead Mall

Lackawanna Plaza was a small shopping mall in Montclair, N.J., built in an old historic train station that dates back to 1913. Roughly 10 years ago, the anchor tenant, a Pathmark supermarket, closed down and whatever stores were left in the mall followed shortly thereafter. It went completely dark.

Recently the old mall has reopened as Lackawanna Station, an event space and art hub, along with a couple galleries, a bar, stage, record store and some pop-up retail. But what has visually transformed the ghost mall is the murals that surround the space, including on what used to be the walls of the old Pathmark.

Jeks and Jerkface
D*Face
Jeks One
Jeks
Jerkface
BKFoxx
Michael Reeder
Yok & Sheryo
Marguerite Kaufer
Even the police caught the spirit

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Whatever Happened To? Ike Turner

Ike Turner could stake a claim as the father of rock and roll. In 1951 he came out with a song called “Rocket 88” that some say is the first rock and roll record. 

But that’s not what he’s known for. Instead he’s remembered for the Ike and Tina Turner Revue and, he’s remembered as the abuser of his musical partner and wife Tina.

The Ike and Tina Turner Review ended abruptly in 1976 when Tina pulled out and filed for divorce. The details of Ike’s abuse would come out  in the 1987 autobiography “I, Tina” and the 1993 movie “What’s Love Got to Do with It.”

Ike once offered this rather lame explanation (Frank Spotnitz, UPI, Aug. 23, 1985):

“Everybody has fights.

“Some of them say I beat her, I was brutal to her. I think you can look at her and see about how brutal I’ve been. Anyway, everybody loves her today, definitely think if I was brutal to her – I’m saying if I was – and she’s the one everybody loves today, well then they should be proud I was brutal because she’s what they like to hear.” 

Another member of the Ike and Tina Revue would later come out with charges of abuse by Ike. “American soul singer P.P. Arnold has penned a memoir called ‘Soul Survivor,’ in which she alleges that, during the time she was a member of the Ike and Tina Turner Revue, Ike Turner ‘trapped her in a room and raped her.’ The allegation was published in an interview she did with the Telegraph in the U.K. ahead of the book’s release there.” (Thania Garcia, Variety, July 5, 2022)

It wouldn’t be long before Ike Turner’s musical resume would be dwarfed by his rap sheet.

In a obit with the headline ‘Visionary Turned Villain’ written by Chicago Tribune music critic Greg Jot (Dec. 13, 2007), he noted:

“He was arrested 11 times in the ’70s and ’80s for various offenses, mostly drug-related. In 1990, he was convicted of possessing and transporting cocaine, and the next year, as he and Tina were being inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, he was sitting in a prison cell, completing an 18-month sentence.”

In 1974 he “was arrested with the other three defendants at a recording studio March 26, on a warrant accusing them of using studio telephones equipped with ‘blue boxes.’ Authorities said a blue box is a multifrequency device that permits telephone calls to be placed to any dialing point without being recorded by the phone company’s automatic equipment. (Miami Herald, Aug. 8, 1974) Those charges were dropped.

The Albuquerque Tribune had this story on July 14, 1981:

“Rock star Ike Turner, facing trial this month on charges he shot his newspaper delivery man, has been arrested by narcotics officers who reportedly found a small quantity of cocaine in his briefcase. Turner is due in Torrance Superior Court July 27 for trial on charges he shot Andrew Francis in the ankle. Turner pleaded innocent June 18 to a felony count of assault with a deadly weapon. The entertainer, half of the former team of Ike and Tina Turner, allegedly fired two shots at Francis earlier this year in front of the musician’s home. The incident reportedly was triggered when Francis hit Turner’s dog with a newspaper.” The paperboy, who was an adult male, eventually won an $11 million judgment against Turner.

Six years later (Aug. 31, 1987), Newsday had this:

“In December the rhythm and blues musician said he completed a drug recovery and said he kicked a 16-year cocaine habit and vowed to ‘stay sober for the rest of my life’ as he attempted to revive his career. Yesterday it was disclosed that he is being held in lieu of $2,500 bail in Los Angeles on charges of possessing cocaine after police stopped his car as part of a routine traffic check. Police said that Turner, 55, and another man were arrested late Wednesday night in West Hollywood, and that Turner had a quarter of an ounce of cocaine in his possession.” That incident resulted in a one-year jail sentence.

After their breakup, Tina Turner went on to become ‘the queen of rock and  roll.” She was playing stadiums and arenas. Ike’s comeback was a lot different.

Twelve years later Richard Scheinn of Knight-Ridder Newspapers (Nov. 6, 1988) wrote about Turner’s attempt to get his career back on track playing clubs in California.

“Clubs in San Rafael and Cotati had cancelled Turner’s gigs for lack of advance sales. Then, to salvage dates in Soquel and San Francisco, Turner accepted a pay cut for the band from about $2,500 to $1,500 a night.”

Scheinn caught one of the shows at a club called O.T. Price’s.

“The dance floor is full, but it soon becomes apparent that the music is missing a certain edge, a certain groove and commitment – Turner had spoken earlier about the challenge of teaching his new band to ‘sound and feel real.’ Most of the audience remains in its seats, not looking terribly thrilled, as the band rolls through Sly Stone’s ‘I Want to Take You Higher,’ followed by a country tune, a slick pop-soul tune and the inevitable ‘Proud Mary,’ once an anthem for Ike and Tina. Turner looks a little sheepish, fades into the background, then smiles and gives a thumbs-up sign to the audience as he runs off the stage at the end of the set.”

In 2001, 23 years after his last record, Turner released a new album ‘Here and Now.’

His complicated legacy is demonstrated by this story.

“(St. Louis) Mayor Francis Slay denied a request to honor Turner by making Sept. 2 ‘Ike Turner Day’ in St. Louis, the same day Turner was scheduled to play at the Big Muddy Blues Festival. Some had complained to the mayor that honoring a man who has admitted hitting his ex-wife would send the wrong message.” (Cheryl Wittenauer, AP, Dec. 13, 2007)

Turner died in 2007 at his home in suburban San Diego. He was 76.

One unfortunate part of his legacy has apparently lived on: “Ike Turner Jr., son of the late legendary singer Tina Turner and former husband and musical partner Ike Turner, was arrested Saturday, May 6, and has been charged with crack cocaine possession and tampering with evidence.” (Danielle Bacher, People, June 21, 2023)

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