Art on the Streets, Montreal

Leonard Cohen
Leonard Cohen
McGill University

Montreal car port
Macadam Park, Montreal
Partly Cloudy with High Possibilities of “WOW,” cooling trail in Macadam Park
Montreal mural on Mont Royal St.
Statue outside Notre Dame Basilica, Montreal
The English Pug and the French Poodle

Queensbridge Houses mural, Montreal
MIle End sculpture
Jurassic Fish, Glen LeMesurier
Montreal mural
Sculpture on grounds  of McGill University
Montreal sculpture
Old Port fireworks, Montreal
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The Darkness and Light of Ellis Island

Having lived in the New York City area for most of my life, I am somewhat less enamored by many of the city’s tourist attractions than the millions of visitors who come to see them. Ellis Island is an exception. Standing in the refurbished great hall, you can feel what America is about. Unless you’re a Native American, we all have ancestors who came from somewhere else. For most, it was not an easy trip.

Ellis Island

In my mind Ellis Island should represent the fulfillment of the promise of the Statue of Liberty, the place where we swing open the doors and take in “the tired, the poor, the huddled masses yearning to breathe free.” Two books that I read recently suggest that the people who came through here thought of it as something completely different.

Ellis Island: A People’s History, by Malgorzata Szejnert, is a history of the island, from 1892 when an Irish girl named Annie Moore stepped ashore until they turned the lights out in 1954. Szejnert is from Poland  and the book was originally written in Polish. Using a lot of the registry records, Szejnert offers snapshots of many of the immigrants who came to the island and somewhat more detail on the commissioners and others who worked there.

The Next Ship Home: A Novel of Ellis Island by Heather Webb is a piece of historical fiction, a story of how the paths of two young women crossed there. One is an Italian immigrant fleeing an abusive father in Sicily. The other is a German-American whose abusive stepfather sets her up with a unwanted job on the island.

These two works show the island as something other than a beacon of hope and light. The Polish author Szejnert offers the comment “the rest of the world associates it more with the end of hopes than the beginning.” And in Webb’s novel, Italians christened Ellis Island  “L’Isola delle Lacrime (Island of Tears).”

One of the immigration port’s commissioners, Frederick Wallis, is quoted by Szejnert upon his resignation as saying “the suffering we see at the island daily is indescribable and would melt a heart of granite.”

young immigrants

This is a place where desperate people, after a most often arduous journey, are subjected to life altering decisions. Decisions made by overworked staffers who don’t speak their language, may not have the best of intentions and who make those decisions quickly and often arbitrarily. And, assuming Webb’s tale is accurate, that’s not the worst of it. New immigrants may well have found themselves extorted and exploited by the more unscrupulous of agents. One of Webb’s characters, an inspector who extracts sexual favors from female immigrants in order to let them through, is based on a real Ellis Island inspector named John Legerhilder.

Szejnert offers the statistic that of the 16.6 million who disembarked on Ellis Island, only 610,000 were turned away. That’s a pretty small percentage, but it tells you nothing of the heartbreak of the 610,000 or of the families split apart, likely forever.

What is striking in reading these two books is how things are pretty much the same a century later when it comes to immigrants. In The Last Ship Home, Francesca Ricci, a beautiful, hard-working and courageous young woman, is reviled because she is Italian. Reviled by German-Americans, immigrants themselves who arrived a generation or two earlier. Now it’s Mexicans and Haitians and Central Americans who are vilified by people whose ancestors also came here as immigrants for many of the same reasons and whose ancestors may very well have been regarded as “undesirable” at the time.

Nor were the politics of immigration all that different. Under some administrations, officers were appointed who had some empathy for the arrivals and who tried to treat them fairly. But the appointees from other administrations looked at every immigrant with suspicion and thought of their jobs as protecting the country from these people.

Both of these books have their flaws. In reading Szejnert’s book I kept wanting to find out more about the immigrants she would so briefly introduce us to. The emotions are thick in Webb’s history that sometimes feels like something akin to a romance novel.

Registry Room

In the future, I will likely find my way back to Ellis island. I’ll stand in awe in the middle of the great hall. But I’ll remember there’s another side to the story. After all, as I learned from Szejnert, Annie Moore, the cute 15-year old Irish girl celebrated as the first to come through, ended up living a life of poverty, giving birth to 11 children of which only five survived to become adults, and dying at the age of 47.

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For more photos of Ellis Island see A Place to Celebrate Immigrants

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Boardwalk Gourmet

What to Eat at the Jersey Shore

The Best Pizza

There is no food that is consumed more on New Jersey’s oceanfront boardwalks than pizza. Any town that has a commercial boardwalk, has at least one pizza joint on every block. These two are my favorites.

Mack’s, Wildwood

Perhaps the reason I can’t choose one of these pizza joints over the other is that they’re blood relatives. Their common ancestry goes back to Anthony and Lena Macaroni who operated a restaurant in Trenton. On Memorial Day in 1953, Anthony, Lena and their three sons Joseph, Vincent and Duke opened Mack’s Pizza on the boardwalk in Wildwood. A few years later, in 1956, Anthony, Vincent and cousin Vince Manco opened a shop on the Ocean City boardwalk which they named Mack & Manco. Mary Bangle, daughter of Frank Manco, and her husband Charles Bangle purchased the Ocean City operation in 2011 and renamed it Manco & Manco. In 2017-18, Charles Bangle spent 13 months in jail on tax evasion charges. Mary got three years probation. It had no effect on the pizza.

The Best Fries

They’ll fry anything on the boardwalk.

Curley’s is a Wildwood landmark.

But the best fries are in the Boss’ old stomping grounds, Asbury Park, just a block away from Madame Marie’s and across the street from the Stone Pony.

Best coffee

No contest. It’s Ocean City Coffee Company. Pay no heed that Starbuck’s opened a block away.

Ocean City coffee

Atlantic City’s primary contribution to the culinary world is salt water taffy. There is a story about a storm in the Atlantic in the 1880’s that washed out a storage bin full of taffy at a candy store in Atlantic City run by David Bradley. Perhaps tongue in cheek, he gave the remaining product the name salt water taffy. That may or may not be true, but we know that Joseph Fralinger was the leader in commercializing the sweet treat (a product that includes no salt water among its ingredients). His first competitor was Enoch James.  Today, both brands are owned by James Candy Co. (an outfit that is in Chapter XI) and each still has a branded store on the boardwalk.

In Ocean City, this is the signature sweet:

And in Wildwood, it’s this:

Laura's Fudge
Laura’s Fudge
Kohr's
If you’re on the boardwalk and you don’t see one of these, you’re not in Jersey anymore.

And for some non-traditional boardwalk food, how about a Korean fusion taco, served out of this converted storage container on the Asbury Park boards.

Mogo
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Of Monsters and Music

MoPOP

The Museum of Pop Culture, Seattle

Costume for the Beast
Costume for Beast in X-Men: First Class
Guitars at MoPOP
Buddy Holly guitar
Arkellian Sand Beetle
Arkellian Sand Beetle in Starship Troopers
Grandmaster Flash turntable
Turntable used by Grandmaster Flash in the late 1970’s, early 1980’s
Cyberman
Cyberman costume used in television series Doctor Who
Winged Angel
Winged Angel, stage prop used by Nirvana during In Utero tour
Kurt Cobain artwork
A New American Gothic, Kurt Cobain’s high school art class illustration

Galaxy Quest costume
General Roth’h’ar Sarris costume from Galaxy Quest
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All That Glitters is Glass

Chihuly Garden and Glass, Seattle

The Museum

Chihuly glass
Sealife

Float Boats

The Glasshouse

Chihuly's Glasshouse
Chihuly's Glasshouse
The Space Needle from inside the Glasshouse

The Garden

Chihuly garden
Chihuly Glass and Garden
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For the Culture, By the Culture

The Morris Museum, Morristown, N.J.

The Matriarch
The Matriarch, Alonzo Adams

Art in the Atrium is a non-profit Black arts organization in Morristown, N.J. Since its founding in 1991, it has exhibited the works of African-American artists at the Atrium Gallery. The current exhibit, For the Culture, By the Culture: Thirty Years of Black Art, Activism and Achievement, at the Morris Museum, is a retrospective of those 30 years of Art in the Atrium exhibits.

How to Throw a Curve
How to Throw a Curve, William Tolliver
Faith's Hands, Deborah Willis
Faith’s Hands, Deborah Willis
Viki Craig wall hanging
It Takes a Village, Viki Craig (quilted wall hanging)
Children's Heart, Joe Sam
Children’s Heart, Joe Sam

Posters from previous Art in the Atrium exhibits:

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Staying Cool, Mt. Rainier NP

Mt. Rainier National Park

For those of you who may be living through a sweltering mid-summer weekend, here’s some cool and refreshing photos from Sunrise Point in Mt. Rainier National Park, Washington. Sunrise Point, at an elevation of 6,400 feet, is the highest point at the park that is accessible by car. These aren’t photos from last winter. I took them July 3.

Mt. Rainier National Park was established in 1899. It was the fourth U.S. national park.

Mt. Rainier National Park

At a much lower elevation, and at the southern end of the park is Longmire. This was once a mineral spring resort operated by James Longmire, an American explorer who found his way here in the 1850’s.

Longmire, Mt. Rainier NP
A mineral spring at Longmire
Longmire Library
The Longmire Library was originally built in 1910 and at first used as a community kitchen. It has had a number of different uses throughout its history but now once again serves as a library for park staff.
Rusty Springs
Rusty Spring. The water here originated as snow melt or rainwater. It is warmed by geothermal heat and the warm water dissolves iron which oxidizes and gives it a rusty color.
Trail of the Shadows
Western Tanager
Western Tanager
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It’s the Fourth of July

hardware store flag
Johns' Flag at MOMA
Flag, Jaspar Johns
Stripes and Fence Forever at MASS MoCA
Stripes and Fence Forever, ERRE
Stone Harbor lifeguards
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Tribeca Does Sport

The 2022 Tribeca Film Festival had more than its share of movie about sports. Here are a few I watched:

Breaking the Ice

Mira is a women’s hockey player in Austria. She’s captain of the Dragons. Or at least she was captain until she got wasted one night before a road game, showed up 45 minutes late, then puked in front of the steps entering the bus.

Mira works on the family farm/winery with her dementia-suffering grandpa, her hostile mother and the ghost of her wayward brother.  How things got this way is a story that unfolds slowly as the movie moves along.  On the ice she literally has a love/hate relationship with a teammate. 

This is a really nicely filmed movie. There are pictures both beautiful and artistic. And I enjoyed the sounds of the hockey, the skates, the sticks, the pucks slamming into the end boards.  (It’s Austrian women’s hockey so there’s no crowd noise to overwhelm that.)

Much of what transpires is pretty somber. But ahhh…what a difference a goal makes.

Game Change Game

A sports documentary? Yes, but more so a movie about social justice. This is a movie about the 2020 NBA season. Already a season like no other because of COVID, then George Floyd gets murdered by the Minneapolis police.

The NBA suspended its season in March after one player tested positive. It was the first professional sports league to do so. The others quickly followed. It was some five months later that NBA teams chose not to play in the wake of the shooting of Jacob Blake in Kenosha, Wis. Again, the rest of the sports world followed.

This is a movie about conscience, played out over the decision to play basketball in a world that is making sport seem less and less a priority. The players, through the NBA Players Association, had to make the decision to leave their families for three months to play in a bubble in Orlando. It was a still harder decision to go back on the court after the Blake incident.

We’ve seen the footage of Muhammad Ali before. Of Colin Kaepernick. We’ve seen the Gerorge Floyd protests and the Black Lives Matter demonstrations. We’ve seen the response from white supremacists, the reactionaries and the loser of the 2020 election. But we haven’t seen it before through the eyes of NBA players, a unique element in the story of race in America because of their skill, their wealth, and their visibility. As I watched many of these committed and insightful players I had to remind myself that these are really young guys. Odds are they will continue to be the leaders of the sports world when it comes to those issues that are larger than sport.

McEnroe

You may be familiar with John McEnroe the cynical, witty tennis commentator who is at once both entertaining and insightful. Or, you may remember John McEnroe the tennis player, the tantrum-tossing New York brat who was quick to tell anyone who asked that he didn’t give a shit what they thought.

The filmmakers catch a different McEnroe, sitting calmly in a studio, introspective and basically offering up a verbal autobiography. We also hear from his kids, his wife Patty Smith, Billie Jean King, Bjorn Borg, Christie Hynde and even a quick snippet from Keith Richards and a guitar gig with Carlos Santana. One of my favorite lines, when asked about pot smoking: “Today they do performance-enhancing drugs, we did performance-distracting drugs.”

The first half of the documentary is a McEnroe-hosted review of his tennis career. He talks about his early competitors. Jimmy Connors “taught me you have to be a prick out there.” He envied Vitas Gerulaitis’ nightlife and Borg’s calm demeanor. He never apologizes for his volatile on-court episodes but talks about being stupid and “sabotaging myself.”

1984 is a turning point. After reaching the top of the tennis world he backs off a bit, gets married and has kids. It doesn’t work out with his first wife, Tatum O’Neal, and his tennis career never hits the zenith it did in ‘84. But with a second marriage, to Smith, and more kids, priorities and focus changes.

The movie is long for a sports doc. At times the music seemed a bit somber and the filmmakers seemed to try too hard for the artsy shot. But it’s an interesting story about sports as much as a personal biography of McEnroe. Stars with the drive to hit the heights are usually neither happy nor satisfied when they get there. Give him credit for changing his goal to being a good father.

Unfinished Business

A movie about the WNBA and the New York Liberty franchise in particular. We see the league’s pioneers, Sue Wicks and Rebecca Lobo and Theresa Witherspoon, and we see lots of highlights of the 2021 Liberty season when the team unexpectedly made the playoffs.

A good part of the movie felt like a team highlight reel, but interspersed with some meaningful issues. From the early years those players talked about what it meant to have a professional league to play in. While that has been accomplished, these players have to play year round and make most of their money overseas. Picture Stephen Curry heading to Russia as soon as the playoffs end so he can pick up a bigger paycheck.

No professional athletes anywhere are as socially conscious and as willing to use their platform to speak out as the WNBA players and we see some of that here. No other professional athletes as a group have been as forthcoming about their identities.

Yet this is a league where a team can make the playoffs  and not have access to their home arena because it’s been booked. And this a league where a team like the Liberty once moved from Madison Square Garden to a gym in Westchester County with a 2,000-3,000 capacity. That’s the unfinished business. Elite professional athletes who are still not always treated as such.

As a movie, this documentary sometimes seems a little scattered and disorganized. You have to admire the people being filmed. But all in all, I’d have rather spent the time watching a WNBA game.

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Stars of Tribeca Pt. 2

Capsule reviews and ratings of the films of the 2022 Tribeca Film Festival

Land of Gold ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

A second generation Sikh-American truck driver sets out on one last long haul trip before his wife is due to give birth. As he does he discovers an unexpected addition to his cargo, an undocumented Mexican-American girl of maybe 10 who also is headed to Boston.

This is a movie about immigrants, told from their perspective by a director, Nardeep Khurmi, who is an immigrant himself. He also plays the role of Kiran, the trucker.

Elena turns out to not be the shy, scared little girl you’d expect. Instead Kiran ends up sharing his cab with a saucy, articulate, opinionated young lady. A pretty good companion for long days on the road. He introduces her to Indian food, she talks him into a burger run. She takes him to church, he brings her to a Sikh temple.

Eventually she tells her story. She ran away as the rest of her family was taken away in a raid by immigration police. He flashes back to his own family’s experiences. Along the way they encounter the occasional scowl which immigrants in America must be all too familiar with. More consequential are the encounters with immigration police.

This is a touching, emotional movie that rings true at every turn. I hated to see it end.

Land of Dreams ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Haunting and mysterious. A young Iranian-American woman is a census worker, knocking on doors and not just getting demographic data but asking people to recall their most recent dreams. She records this, brings it back to the office, and plugs it into some high tech apparatus through which, amidst a flurry of blue lights and bar graphs, it is processed.

Why? “For your security” says Simin the census taker, but she knows nothing further. And the stone faced census execs at headquarters aren’t letting on. It’s a little like a next-century 1984. Some unseen technology enables ank enhanced level of surveillance.

The movie is structured as a series of vignettes as Simin goes on her different appointments. The setting is New Mexico, beautifully filmed in all its starkness.

The festival blurb suggests it’s political satire mixed with science fiction. Maybe. There’s a scene where she visits a “colony” where Iranian revolutionaries who fought the Islamic state are holed up. There’s another where she encounters an evangelical cult. How it all fits together I’m not sure but the movie is as much about how immigrants are perceived in America as anything else. As with Land of Gold, the Iranian-American directors are both immigrants. Sheila Vand, who plays Simin, is a second generation Iranian-American.

If you’re the kind of person who likes their movies to tie up all the loose ends and spell things out, this may not be for you. This one’s vague. But I found the movie captivating, and Vand’s performance mesmerizing.

Jerry and Marge Go Large ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

It’s an overused expression but this is truly a feel-good comedy. Gerry is involuntarily retired from a corn flakes plant in Michigan. He mopes around a bit not knowing what to do with himself. Then he comes up with the key to his so-called Golden years. He discovers a flaw in a state lottery game which he exploits in a big way.

There are morals to the story. One is about how a guy who could do this had been stifled for decades working as a line manager. Another is about the wise-ass Harvard kid who turns out to not be quite as smart as he thinks he is. And another is the neighbor helping neighbor theme. Indeed, Jerry and Marge’s small town Michigan is like a new age Mayberry.

This is now the third movie I’ve seen at the festival from three different countries about a long-time married couples overcoming their boredom. As if there weren’t more serious societal problems. This one is the funniest. And the fact that it is supposedly based on a true story makes the feel-good part even better.

Katrina Babies ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

You don’t need millions of dollars, a fancy set and state of the art equipment to make a good movie. Katrina Babies has some interviews, a bit of animation and some archival footage. And it couldn’t be more interesting.

It’s 2005 in an underwater New Orleans when this documentary begins. Small children are being rescued from rooftops in a basket hanging from a helicopter. One of the children who evacuated, although he was fortunate enough to do it in the family car, was Edward Buckles Jr. Since then, Buckles has used his camera to record friends, family and neighbors, children at the time but adults now, as they talk about the hurricane, the evacuation and eventually coming back to the city. The result is this movie.

Above all else Buckles message is that the story is ongoing. There is a scene of tourists eating beignets at Cafe du Monde. All seems as it was. That’s not the case for the people Buckles introduces us to. One young woman tells how her family was put up in FEMA trailers that were full of formaldehyde. Not long after she developed a cancerous tumor on her stomach.

While Buckles doesn’t emphasize this point, it’s clear that the losses of family, of homes, of neighborhoods would have played out a lot differently if those neighborhoods weren’t predominantly black. “What we lost we’ll never get back,” Buckles last word.

January ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

A somber movie about a depressed film school student in Riga, Latvia, in 1991, as that country was fighting for its independence from the USSR.

Jazis, the student, approaches most of life with seeming indifference. That includes the girlfriend he should have cared about losing and his position of being subject to conscription into the Russian army. It also includes his parents: a father who is still a member of the Communist Party and a mother who is out on the streets demonstrationing for independence.

Jazis views it all through the lens of his father’s old camera. He films his girlfriend Anna, some drunken teen romps, the quiet sea, and gets knocked around filming the police. One wonders how this collection of random scenes would fit together as the movie he aspires to make. In January, these pieces of this and that somehow do fit together.

This is an artistic but darkly filmed movie. More than once I found myself wondering if it was in color, because there is little. It is slow and pensive and brings us no conclusion, but is eminently watchable.m

Roving Woman ⭐️⭐️⭐️

The roving woman is Sara. We are introduced to her wearing a sleek dress standing in her driveway banging on the door of a house. Inside, a boyfriend/fiancé who is apparently through with her.

With no money, clothes or pretty much anything else, Sara hits the road. Eventually she finds her way to a gas station where she steals a car and heads out on the road to some pretty desolate place. She meets a number of people along the way: a mystical dude with a face mask, a couple honeymooning in a trailer, a guitar-playing recluse. Mostly these encounters are just odd.

This is the moodiest of movies. The scenery is stark. The music is dirge-like. None of the things you might fear would happen to a half-dressed woman sleeping alone in a stolen car actually happen. Nor does much else happen.

My interest in this one didn’t last as long as the movie did.

Good Girl Jane ⭐️⭐️

This movie won the jury award for best U.S. narrative feature. Beats me why.

Jane is a high school girl trying to adjust to a new school. Her parents are divorced. Her mother turns every conversation into complaining about her father and her father is MIA. Jane connects with the wrong crowd and you can pretty much guess what happens from there.

A good part of the movie becomes a whirlwind drug fueled maze of partying and car seat sex. Making matters even worse is a toxic 21-year-old boyfriend and con artist who ups the ante on the drugs.

Rain Spencer won the jury prize for best performance in a U.S. narrative feature for her portrayal of Jane. I’m okay with that but as for the film, we’ve all seen this story before and it’s pretty predictable.

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Stars of Tribeca Pt. 1

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